Inicio Actualidad Sasha DiGiulian repite ‘The Shining’ 8b, parte de la trilogía canadiense

Sasha DiGiulian repite ‘The Shining’ 8b, parte de la trilogía canadiense

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Sasha DiGiulian en 'The Shining'
Gran ambiente en 'The Shining'. Foto / Peter Hoang

Sasha DiGiulian ha repetido The Shining 5.13d (8b), en Banff (Canadá). La vía se encuentra en el Mount Louis, una de las montañas más populares de las Canadian Rockies, y surca toda su cara este a lo largo de 200 metros. Es la primera ascensión femenina en The Shining.

La escaladora norteamericana está decidida a convertirse en la primera persona que repite la trilogía de vías que Sonnie Trotter conectó por primera vez en septiembre de 2017, en las montañas rocosas de Canadá. DiGiulian ya encadenó a finales de julio War Hammer 5.14a (8b+), el primero de sus objetivos, y después de ascender The Shining, solo le resta encadenar Blue Jeans Direct 5.14a (8b+).

Sonnie Trotter y Tommy Caldwell ascendieron The Shining por primera vez en 2012. Son 15 largos de escalada técnica, con una gran exposición y que además requiere una larga aproximación.

DiGiulian, formando cordada con Peter Hoang, ha encadenado la versión original de The Shining, que incluye un largo de 5.13d (8b), según ha aclarado la revista digital Gripped. Sonnie Trotter, una vez abierta la línea, volvió a ella en 2017 para abrir una variante de 5.14a (8b+) que todavía nadie ha repetido, aunque DiGiulian tiene previsto intentarlo.

Cabe destacar la fuerza y determinación de Sasha DiGiulian para cerrar la trilogía. Después de encadenar la primera vía del proyecto, la escaladora sufrió una importante sobrecarga en el hombro izquierdo que le obligó a descansar unos días. Una vez recuperada, DiGiulian ha vuelto con la motivación muy alta y ya piensa en Blue Jeans Direct, en el Mount Yamnuska.

I am in a total state of disbelief.⛰💎🙊 I can’t believe I sent the Shining!!!!! Coming off a high of sending Warhammer (my first of the Trilogy goal) I dove directly into the process again with the Shining on the Diamond 💎 of Mt. Louis, my next goal. The climb felt really scary; exposed, run out, and on edge. But very thin microscopic @tommycaldwell @sonnietrotter technical edges! I put in two days that were each 18+ hour days; injuring my shoulder the second day. I was pretty down and hard on myself having to rest because all I wanted was to keep charging forward on my climbing agenda. Though, during this time I worked with @fmoser on mobilizing, strengthening, and rehabbing the shoulder. I took time off of climbing and did light exercises to keep my body flowing. Nothing like the big pushes I had been becoming accustomed to prior to the injury. I lead through the first two pitches and felt much more energized than before. When I took off on the crux pitch, I told @pete.hoang (not that he needed me to tell him but this reassured myself) that I’d be taking some big whips to clear my mind and I needed to commit to the hard moves. He was ready for me to fly off the wall. But when I pulled through the beginning difficult sections, I was just sticking on like Velcro to the wall. For the first few draws, I was putting so much extra force into the razor blade credit card sized bits that my fingers clinged on to. The ideal state of climbing to me is this state where I am physically and mentally committed but my body just operates without needing to be told what to do. This flow state where mind and matter fuse is hard to tap into on demand; though, when I really care about a climb or am being pushed to my limits, I find it happens naturally quite often. I wasn’t there yet, at the beginning of the climb. Though, as I methodically punched through sequences, all of a sudden I had passed the hardest section of the climb; a series of bad side pulls with minimal feet. I yelled down to Peter in disbelief “Omg. I just got through the crux!” I was so surprised. This is the moment just after sending the crux!!! 🙆🏼‍♀️ photos and video coming soon!

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